FASHION THEORY: CASE STUDY_RITU KUMAR_PART-II

PROFILE of Ritu Kumar :  Ritu Kumar is one of India’s foremost designers. She has developed a unique style of her own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. With a background in an art history and museology, which has enriched her horizons, Ritu understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. Ritu, who began her work with four hand-block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta forty years ago, was the first woman to introduce the ‘boutique’ culture in.

Over the years, Ritu Kumar’s work as a fashion designer has shown a progression, which has matured beyond textile crafts. She has a unique ability to evolve with each collection into creative styling, translating textures and embellishments into refreshingly new and unexpectedly contemporary silhouettes, making her work particularly relevant from India’s fashion point of worldview. Her book “Costumes and Textiles of Royal India” published by Christies in October 1999 chronicles the history of textiles and art design in India.Ritu has recently been awarded the 'Indira Gandhi Priyadarshini award' for her achievements and contribution in the field of fashion. Mother Teresa, Birju Maharaj, Pt. Hari Prasad were previous recipients of this prestigious award.

EARLY LIFE AND EDUCATION of Ritu Kumar:

Ritu Kumar was born on 11 November 1944 in Amritsar, Punjab. A native of Delhi, Ritu graduated from Lady Irwin College in 1964 and did her higher education from Briarcliff College, New York USA in 1966. The ace designer had a humble beginning in a small village, near Kolkata, in 1960, with a set of hand block printers and two tables and today the business has grown to retail from more than 35 stores across the country.

PERSONAL LIFE of Ritu Kumar:

Ritu Kumar is credited as being one of the first Indian designers who was catalytic in bringing a contemporary idiom to several ancient skills and has been a strong force in marketing them to a dynamic modern India. Over the years, Ritu Kumar’s work as a fashion designer has shown a progression, which has matured beyond textile crafts. She has a unique ability to evolve with each collection into creative styling, translating textures and embellishments into refreshingly new and contemporary silhouettes, making her work particularly relevant from India’s fashion point of worldview.

While Ritu Kumar’s forte lies in traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India.She has also evolved another style for the young buyer, a collection that in her words has “redefined traditional handwriting to meet the changing needs of the new generation.” The inspiration of these garments is basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles.

CAREER Related: Ritu Kumar began her career in 1969 with just four hand block printers and two tables in a small village near Kolkata and today the brand retails from nearly 35 stores in India. She has pioneered the term ‘fashion’ in the Indian context and more importantly has demonstrated that hand-made products can be as profitable, and even more glamorous than those made by machine. The company sources the finest fabrics with great craftsmanship from across the country thereby contributing to revival of Indian textiles and providing employment to hundreds of artisans.

FASHION THEORY: CASE STUDY_RITU KUMAR

Hey.. You must be finding somewhat boring.. Is that So..??? 

This is the introductory part of our Panahe.. Just Keep  flow with Rivaaz , you will be enjoying this interesting journey. 

To understand the fashion Theory, Case Study i one of the Important part.. I have done case study on many designers. Here I start with that of RITU KUMAR.

INTRODUCTION Of Ritu Kumar: 

The purpose of this project is to present the research on fashion designer. This project is all about the case study of designer RITU KUMAR. Fashion designers work in a number of ways in designing clothing and accessories; and, because of the time required to bring a garment onto the market, must at times anticipate changing consumer tastes.

Fashion designers attempt to design clothes which are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They must consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn. They have a wide range and combinations of materials to work with and a wide range of colors, patterns and styles to choose from. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or party dresses

A “mythical conception of a designer as a 'creative genius' disconnected from social conditions” is central for the working of the fashion system and for the reproduction of fashion as ideology. Creativity is socially constructed and not an innate given, i.e. many may be gifted but no one can become a famous designer without being legitimized by the fashion system and its gatekeepers.

BIOGRAPHY of the Designer: 

Ritu Kumar is the largest & most respected designer-wear brand in India today. Since 1969, it has developed a unique style of its own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. Mrs. Kumar understands of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. 

Today the company is renowned for its distinctive use of colours, quality of fabrics, intricate embroideries and a gloriously rich Indian aesthetic. Since the company was built on patronage of craftspeople, it has made a significant impact in creating employment in underdeveloped areas. Over the years it has patronized several organizations working in these areas and helped in developing skills and taking them to the market.

Ritu Kumar as a brand has been admired and worn all over the world. Its patrons include Indian stars such as Aishwarya Rai, Priyanka Chopra, Lara Dutta, Dia Mirza to name a few and international celebrities such as the late Princess Diana, Mischa Barton, Anoushka Shankar. Since 1994, Ritu Kumar has also designed the wardrobes for the Miss India contestants for their participation in international beauty pageants such as Miss Universe, Miss World and Miss Asia Pacific. An impressive number of winners have emerged from amongst these contestants putting India on the beauty map. Ritu in 1999 published a book “Costumes and Textiles of Royal India” which chronicles the history of textiles and art design in India.

Ritu has also been the recipient of numerous awards such as the ‘Indira Gandhi Priyadarshini Award’ for her contribution in the field of fashion. She has also been bestowed with the prestigious award of “Chevalier des arts et des lettres” by the French government. Most recently, she was awarded the Achievement Award at the L’Oreal Paris Femina Women’s Awards.

Ritu Kumar, has also been awarded the Padma Shri Award 2013, the country's fourth highest civilian award for her exceptional and distinguished service in the field of fashion, and textile

FASHION THEORY : BASIC

Fashion Theory is a theoretical approach which, in advance of any professional know-how, constructs favorable conditions and theoretical filters by selecting from among the human and social sciences (including literature, philosophy and art) the fashion system understood as a special dimension of material culture, the history of the body, the theory of sensibility.

As mentioned earlier also, this blog not only points to the clothing fashion.. It could be a fashion of nature, fashion of style, fashion of anything i.e. RIVAAZ : The flow of any attribute for a particular theme, culture or nature.

Fashion Theory includes certain terms which are not only used by Fashion Students, but it should be used by ‘MANGO PEOPLE’. This leads to the better understanding and provides a comfortable zone in the Fashion Wold..

FASHION TREND: Fashion trend is the direction fashion is moving. It is the culture which mass follows. Fashion Trend is proposed by the designers and carried by the fashion followers(which u will read further in the same post)

FAD: Fashion which is not accepted by mass. It is nothing but the rejected fashion.

FASHION MOVEMENT: Fashion Movement is the ongoing change in what is considered fashionable from acceptance to obsolescence (the rejection of a fashion in favor of a new one)

Factors that accelerate fashion movement:

There are certain factors which accelerate the fashion movement or popularize any fashion or the flow.

First comes Communications and mass media, which is playing a vital role in every field. It is the fastest method to spreading the fashion.Next is Good economic conditions. The more is the economy, the more people would afford the fashionable objects and so the society will. Moreover, In this age of Increased competition, nobody seems to be satisfied. Youth shares 63.3% of our society which has the common thinking of "IAm the BEST". 

Increase in the literacy rate leading the developing countries to the Technological advances which is also one the most important factor that makes the fashion movement dynamic. Social and physical mobility of resources supporting the factors for encouraging this movement. Other factors could be More of leisure time, Higher levels of education, Changing roles of women, Seasonal changes.

FASHION MOTIVATORS:  Fashion motivators are the role models of latest fashion. These the selected part of the society who are dare to experiment with the new introduced fashion.They may include celebrities, models or high class people.

FASHION  LEADERS:  Fashion Leaders are the people  who are confidence to start or accept new fashions.They comprised the small number in the society who dare to be different. They are one who are trendsetters. These leaders are most noticed and imitated (by the general public or mass) and display new style. They are often public celebrities.

FASHION VICTIMS: This one is somewhat hilarious. Unfortunately, this category shares the major part of the society. These are the one who blindly follow the fashion (which is not exactly the fashion). They are the wealthy people who proves the saying 'Money does not buy taste or style'. Sometimes, they fall victim to prestige or acceptance at fashion’s expense.

FASHION FOLLOWERS: Fashion followers need time for fashion to be firmly accepted by majority before they will adopt it. They waits for the fashions must become well-established. Reason may be lack of time, money, interest, and devotion to fashion. They always tend to admire and imitate others. They are insecure about their own tastes or sense of fashion.

FASHION LAGERS: The most interesting or fashion lagers are the last to adopt a style or fashion. They comes in the queue when majority of people have already accepted the fashion.They may often find their apparel on sale as it is usually on the way to obsolescence.

THE FASHION CYCLE:
The way in which fashion changes is usually described as a fashion cycle. It is difficult to categorize or theorize about fashion without oversimplifying. Even so, the fashion cycle is usually depicted as a bell shaped curve encompassing five stages: introduction, rise in popularity, peak of popularity, decline in popularity, and rejection. The cycle can reflect the acceptance of a single style from one designer or a general style such as the miniskirt.

1. Introduction of a Style:  
Most new styles are introduced at a high price level. Designers who are globally respected for their talent may be given financial backing and be allowed to design with very few limitations on creativity, quality of raw materials, or amount of fine workmanship. Naturally, production costs are high, and only a few people can afford the resulting garments. Production in small quantities gives a designer more freedom, flexibility, and room for creativity. 

2. Increase in Popularity: 
The popularity of a style may further increase through copying and adaptation. Some designers or stylists may modify a popular style to suit the needs and price range of their own customers. Some manufacturers may copy it with less expensive fabric and less detail it order to all the style at lower prices. 
Volume production requires a likelihood of mass acceptance. Therefore, volume manufacturers carefully study sales trends because their customers want clothes that are in the mainstream of fashion. 

Designers interpret their research and creative ideas into appeal or accessories and then offer the new styles to the public. Designers create new designs by changing elements such as line, shape, color , fabric, and details and their relationship to one another. New creations referred to as the “latest fashions” may not yet be accepted by anyone. At this first stage of the cycle, fashion implies only style and newness. 

3. Peak of Popularity: 
If a new style is purchased, worn, and seen by many people, it may attract the attention of buyers, the press, and the public. In self-defense, most couture and high – priced designers now have secondary bridge and or diffusion lines that sell at lower prices, so that they can sell their designs in greater quantities. 

4. Decline in Popularity: 

Eventually, so many copies are mass produced that fashion –conscious people tire of the style and begin to look for something new. Consumers still wear garments in the style, but they are no longer willing to buy them at regular prices. Retail stores put such declining styles on sale racks, hoping to make room for new merchandise. 


5. Rejection of a Style or Obsolescence: 
When a fashion is at the height of its popularity, it may be in such demand that many manufacturers copy it or produce adaptations of it at many price levels. Some designers are flattered by copying and others are resentful. There is very fine line between adaptations and knockoffs. 
In the last phase of the fashion cycle, some consumers have already turned to new looks, thus beginning a new cycle. The rejection or discarding of a style just because it is out of fashion is called consumer obsolescence. As early as 1600, Shakespeare wrote that “fashion wears out more apparel than the man”. 

CLASSICS:

Classics are nothing but the styles that continue to be popular over an extended period of time even though fashion changes; styles that remain in fashion year after year. Ex. Jeans, blazers

FIT:It refers to how tight or loose a garment is on the person wearing.

HOUTE COUTURE: Houte Couture is french term which means 'Fine Tailoring'. These are the Page 3 or High fashioned Garments.

SILHOUETTE: Silhouette literally means 'Outer fall of the Garment'.It is the outline on the basic couture of a garment the shape of a clothing style.

Types of Silhouettes are given below:

·         Ball Gown

·         A-Line

·         Empire Line

·         Panel Dress Foundation

·         Sheath Dress

·         Trumpet

·         Shift Dress

FASHION ILLUSTRATION

Theoretically, Fashion Illustration is the communication of fashion that originates with illustration, drawing and painting. It is usually commissioned for reproduction in fashion magazines as one part of an editorial feature or for the purpose of advertising and promoting fashion makers, fashion boutiques and department stores.

Below I have mentioned how to raw the fashion figures from the very basic. It is also my own work which will help to understand better.

Block Figure: This is the basic figure by which all the movements can be made. A vertical line of 12.5 inches is divided into 10 equal parts for the correspondence. This is is standard for UK SIZE 10 or MEDIUM as per Indian size.

Robo Figure: The purpose of Robo figure is to understand the 10 head female croqui

Fleshing Figure: It is the complete 10 head female fleshing figure.

Different Views of the Figure:

Back View

Side View

3/4 View

Different Movement Figure:

Back Movement

Side Movement

Front Movement

Sitting Movement

Figure Analysis: Drawing a croqui or fleshing figure of any human (female) form will be its analysis. Below are the examples.

Front Analysis

Side Analysis

3/4 Analysis

Movement of various body parts: It is the emphasis on specific body parts.

Movement of Legs

Movement of Feet

Movement of Hands

Movement of Palms

Movement of Upper Torso

Movement of Lower Torso

Footwear Drawing: Footwear is a important part to illustrate your dress. It is the element which adds the more beauty ti your design.

Footwear

FOUNDATION ARTS

Foundation Arts includes the basics of pencil drawing and color knowledge, it’s nothing but our old primary class drawing course. I will not focus on it too much. It would be described through instance images and some of my file articles.

 Pencil Shading :   Pencil shading needs no description as it may lead to boredom. So, you guys can ask   any query by comments. Here are the examples:

 Charcoal :   It is done by charcoal pencils and cotton ball

Charcol Pencils

Some of my file article images are as follows:

File Article. Charcoal 1

File Article. Charcoal 2

 Colors : Colors can be water or poster. File article image:

File Article. Water Color

Line Patterns :  Lines are of many types some of the important ones are :

 Horizontal:

File Article. Horizontal Lines

Vertical: 

File Article.Vertical Lines

Dotted : 

File Article.Dotted Lines

 Curved :

File Article.Curved Lines

    The importance of this article is just to educate you about the ways of expressing your creativity, your innovations.. which starts like a baby birth in your mind and then blossoms to a beautiful girl. It was nothing but the basic element of designing.

DEVELOP YOUR SKILLS

Successful fashion designers have a wide array of skills, including drawing, an eye for color and texture, an ability to visualize concepts in three dimensions.

I will be telling you this with my own experience. Skill development needs basics of colors,textures etc as mentioned above. Each of the topic would be taken step by step subject wise. 

These subjects are as follows:

• Foundation Art
• Fashion Illustration
• Fashion Theory
• Pattern Making Techniques
• Draping
• Garment Making Techniques
• History Of Costumes

COME UP WITH YOUR OWN "STYLE"

Write down your ideas, or draw sketches on paper, so that you have a better picture of it.

If you have an idea for a design, sketch it! Paper and pencils are not difficult to find and it is better to do this before you forget.modification is the biggest step.

Carry a sketchbook around with you at all times. Pin in fabrics you like, label colors and fabrics you will want to use.

Make a portfolio to hold your designs. You might need them later on.

TIPS:

• Follow the three F's: flatters, fits, finances.
• If you want to really be unique, you can make your own clothes and accessories.
• Don't be afraid to copy. If you admire someone's style, borrow ideas from them. Just keep the number of elements you copy to a minimum or you may rub them the wrong way.
• Don't try to wear clothes that are too small, thinking it makes you look slim. Because, it doesn't. Every woman over 20 should own a full length mirror and use it before she walks out the door.
• Wear colors that make you feel happy and pretty. When you feel good in your clothes, you'll look good in your clothes.
• If you're a girl, try new makeup. Visit the makeup section of a department store for a complimentary makeover. Tell the makeup artist what you’re interested in, but be willing to accept his/her input; you could be hiding your best features. Be prepared to purchase at least one thing as a thank-you.
• Don't dwell on it if someone copies you. There's more to you than your style and there's more to your style than that one aspect. Take it as a compliment and find something new.
• If you're a shorter girl, try wearing a ruffled or gathered outfit. It'll make you appear taller.